DIY: Steampunk/End Time Saga Outfit (@WaveGotikTreffen2017)

Another subgroup of WGT-attendees are the steampunk-supporter. Steampunk is a science fiction or science fantasy related genre, incorporating technology and designs inspired by the industrial machineries of the 19th century. Fashion is often a mixture of Victorian designs and mechanic things, such as timepieces, parasols, flying/driving goggles, or welding googles. Mostly, dark and brownish colors are used, such as copper and brass in combination with bright colors such as ecru . The interpretations of steampunk accessories and designs are various and my outfit ended in a mixture of empowerment of women, spirit of adventure, end time saga design, Assassin style and elves-world. The clothes are not very expressive and a more general basis for various outfits, but in combination with the right accessories, it was definitively the outfit I wanted to have.

Powerful and adventurous

(find the How To below the pictures; adapted from Ninin)

Thanks to averagepony and her boyfriend for spending hours and hours shooting me in the beautiful Kirchenruine Wachau, Völkerschlachtdenkmal Leipzig, Südfriedhof Leipzig and an old industrial area in Plagwitz as well as the old Parkkrankenhaus.

What you need:

  • bright cotton fabric (depending on your measures)
  • brown/copper/brass colored fabric (depending on your measures)
  • yarn fitting your fabric color
  • pins
  • 2 braces clips
  • a zipper
  • a sewing machine
  • scissor or a rotary cutter
  • tailor’s chalk
  • iron
20170308_184339-01

Utensils

Step 1

As a first step, measure your body! I highly recommend to watch the video by NinNin, she shows where to measure.

  1. Top – the top will be one of those romantic shirts with uncovered shoulders
    1. measure the scope of your upper body (including the shoulders) approx. where you want to have the shirt: In my case, I wanted the shirt to lay around my upper arms, covering my breasts, but leaving the shoulders free. As I wanted to reap it a bit (and need some more space to move), I added some more inches/centimeters.
    2. chest measurement forthe width of the blouse (you don’t need a measurement of the hip or the waist, because a corsage will cover it anyway)
    3. for the length of the blouse: measure the distance from where the blouse will start to cover your chest to your hips
    4. do the same for the edges of the blouse: measure the distance between the point under your arm (for the sleeves) to your hips. The length of the sleeves is up to you, I wanted to have them short and not so tight around the arms.
    5. measure the length of the sleeves on the outside and inside of your arms (yes, this will be different, otherwise the sleeves won’t be even)
    6. After you have your measures, make a sketch with all your measures, just as I did. I recommend to cut the blouse out of one piece instead of sewing the front and back. You can easily do this by folding your fabric and using the fold as the side of the blouse that will sit around your shoulders.
      SteamPunkBluse

      Measurements for the blouse in cm (my measures)

       

  2. Skirt – The skirt consists of 3 skirts with different length, so you can choose which length you want to wear.
    1. measure the scope where your skirt will sit (between waist and hip), approx. where normal jeans sit; same measure for all 3 skirts
    2. length of the skirts: start to measure from the location where the skirts will start and measure along your leg; choose 3 lengths as you want
    3. for the waistband, I used approx. 12 cm (4,7”)
    4. Keep in mind, that now you will cut out two pieces for the front and the back: so, you have to divide the scope measure by two!
    5. I wanted the longest skirt in white/ecru and the others in brown, but it’s your choice what to do.
SteamPunkRock

Measurements for the skirt in cm (my measures)

Step 2

Now, you can transfer your sketch on the fabric and cut out everything. Also cut out a rectangle in the middle of the front part of the blouse, where we want to insert a ribbon to reap the blouse. It’s really important to keep in mind how the result has to look like.

The sewing part is compared to the Victorian Frill Skirt I did rather low and intuitive.

20170308_204912-01

  1. Sew together the edges of the blouse (along the sides, from the hips to the location under the arms)
  2. Seam the blouse on the sleeves, top and bottom. Keep in mind that you need to leave a spot open at the sleeves and the shoulder part, creating a tunnel, because we want to insert ribbons to reap the fabric here.
  3. Sew together the pieces for every single skirt, but leave a open part on the side you want to insert the zipper in the length of the zipper. Seam them.
  4. Nest the three skirts by keeping in mind how you want to order them.
  5. Pin them together along the “zipper-whole” and along the waistband.
  6. Create the waistband by taking 12 cm wide piece (4,7”) of your fabric (I used the brown one) in the length of the scope of your skirt (at your waist).
    1. Fold the waistband in the middle (at 6 cm [2,3”] and sew together one short edge
  7. Place the waistband around the skirts (you can really place the skirts inside this  waistband) and pin everything together. Keep in mind that the free spaces for the zipper have to be on the same side!
  8. Before sewing the waistband and skirts together (in one step), cut out to ribbons in brown. They will be used for the braces clips. Depending on the width of the clips you bought, the ribbons can only have a certain width. In my case, the width of the clips was 3 cm (1”), so I cut out 8 cm (3,1”) wide piece. Depending on the height you want to clip the skirt, measure the length of the ribbons.
    1. ribbons: After you cut out the ribbons, fold them in the middle (long edge), so they are only 4 cm (1,5”) wide anymore. Sew together all sides, but leave one short edge open, so you can turn the inside out. Do this with both ribbons.
  9. Arrange the clips at the ribbons (stick the ribbon through the tongue of the clips) until the middle of the ribbon, fold the ribbon and place ribbons (with the clips) with the open side under the waistband (between the waistband and the skirts) and pin everything together.
  10. Now, sew the waistband on the skirts, while simultaneously sewing the skirts together and attaching the ribbons with the clips on the skirt in one step.
  11. Finally, sew the zipper in.

,

For my outfit, I added a steampunk corsage (approx. 15€), a red-brown wig (approx. 30€) where I braided some wisps and added some artificial owl feathers, buckskin boots (approx. 30€, already had) and welding googles (approx. 15€). Taken together with the fabric, the whole outfit was around 145€. The handbag was a bit more expensive, but I already had it (Gusti Leder).

The outfit itself was not complicated to make. The hardest part was to fit everything to my measures, especially for the skirts. It took me like 2 days to complete it. It was a really nice experience to sew this kind of blouse and skirt and I learned a lot, such as sewing in a zipper that I have never done before.

The outfit itself was great, even though the googles were not very helpful, falling off my head everytime I moved a bit to fast. I had a lot of fun and can only encourage everyone who loves sewing to start a project even though you think you can not finish it. You’ll always find a way.

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